Method of making shoes



Feb. is, 1927. 1,616,716

. L. E. TOPHAM METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

Original Filed May 22. 1920 v she t -sneet' 1 1,616,716 L. E. TOPHAM v uswaov OF MAKING snows Feb. 8, 1927.

Original Filed May 22. 1920 '1 Sh eet s-Shet" 2 6 Feb. 8, 1927.

- 1,616,716 L. E. TOPHAM METHOD oF MAKING saoss original-F ledma 22, 1920 v sheets-sneet f H g I Feb. s," 1927.

L.',E. TOPHAM ma'waon OF MAKING SHOES '7 Sheets-She t 4 Original Filed May 22, 1920 Feb. 8, 1927,

L... E. TOPHAM METHOD OF MAKING snows w 1 Origix zal Filed May 22, 1920 7 Sheets-Sheet 5 1,616,716 b 1927' L. E. TOPHAM' METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Original Filed May 22, 1920 '7 Sheets-Shet e 1,616,716 L. E. TOPHAM -HETHOD OF MAKING SHOES Feb, 8, 1 927.

Original Filed May-22. 1920 7 Sheets-Sheet 7 Event? Patented Feb. 8, 19.27. I

LAURENCE n. TOPHAM, or sWAi/rrscorr, rrassacnnsnr rs, Assrenon moi-UNITED snon MACHINERY conroaarron, or rnrnnson, new annsny, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

METHOD OF I EAKL'NG SHOES.

, App1ication filed May 22, 1920, Serial No. 383,564. Renewed January 15,1925.

The present invention relates to those op erations in the manufacture of a shoe which are performed progressively along the bot-' tom margin of a shoe while the assembled parts of the shoe are supported upon a last to secure the parts together or prepare the shoe for further operations or give to parts of the shoetheir final form orfinish. An objectof the invention is'to facilitate these operations and-to enable them to berperformed in an accurate and reliable 'manner and thus contribute to the production of shoes uniform as; to size, shape, construc tion and appearance without any substantial skill on the part'of the workmen.

Vfith thi, object in view the invention con--' templates presenting the shoe successively to the operating means which are to perform the successiveoperations on the shoe, utilizing an outline onv the shoe of predetermined shape to determine the outline followed by the operatingmeansduringthe performance of each operation and impart ing predetermined tipping movements to the operating means or shoe as predetermined points in the outline are reached to maintain the operating means and the shoein theproper relative positions at the point of operation. Each operation is thus performed .in'a'n accurate and reliable manner and since the path of each operating-means and the di-' rection extent and timing of the correcting movements are predetermined, the results produced by each operating means are uniform and bear a predetermined relation to the shoe and to the results produced by the Not only does the other operating means. present invention contribute to the production of shoes uniform as to size, shape, construction and appearance, but' the method is such that automatic machinery may be utilized in carrying out the several steps so that the cost of production -can be reduced to a low figure and errors incident to the use of unskilled or careless labor eliminated.

Theinven-tion isiillustrated and described in the present appli ation as applied, in the,-

making of a welted shoe, to the stitching of the outsole of the shoe to the welt, and trimming off the projecti 1g margin of the sole. it isjto beunderstood, however, that the invention is notliinited to these particular operations in making Weltedshoes, but certain features of the invention maybe'employed in other operations and in the making of other classes of shoes. f i

In. making a Welted shoe, it is desirable that the edge ofvthe shoe should be accurately trimmed oii" to a regular outline and that the seambywhich the outsole is attached to the Welt, which-is ordinarily termed the out- 7 seam, should be located at uniform distances itro'm the trimmed edge of the sole respec-I tively about: the forepart'of the shoe and along the shank. In sewing the outsole of a. shoe to the welt, ordinar ly the shoe is guided either by means of a gage arranged to engage't-he edge of the sole or by a gage arranged to enter the crease between the Welt and the-upper so as to engage the upper-close to the inseam, the gage determining thepositionof the shoe transversely ofthe line of feed at the point of operation case, the gage is located. in one position in operating along the shank on the side of the shoe first sewn to locate the seam relatively In either I close to the upper, is shifted by the operator. to another position in 'p'assingfrom the v.

jshankto the forepart to locate the seam close to'the edge of the sole and is shiftedback to the firstpositionin passing from the forepart to the shank onthe opposite side of the shoe. The operating positions of the gage are fixed, the positions of the gage being determined by fixed stops, and the seam follows a line substantially parallel with the outline engaged by the gage, this outline and the outline of the seam having substantially the same shape. cated by means of a gage of this character arranged to engage the edge of the Sole' the line of the seam follows the irregularities in the outline of the sole which is then only rough-rounded. VVhen the outjseamis located by means of such a gage arranged-to Then the outseam is lo-- engage the uppervadjacent the inseam, the 7 outline engaged by the gage, wh ch is deter! mined to a large degree by the inseam, also has certain irregularities, such as those due f to-irreguh rities in. theinseam and also those due to the overlapping of the parts of the upper at certain points, which are reprodu ced in the seam line. ;Furthermore, the points at which the gage is shifted to change bv the eye and judgment. of. the operator with the result'that the gage is'often shifted at an improper point in the movement of ranged to engage the shoe vtion, gages the rough-rounded edge of the sole or the shoe past the stitching mechanism.

In trimming the edge of a sole as ususally performed, the shoe is held in the hands of theoperator and the outline to which the sole is trimmed is determined by the eye of the operator who attempts to trim off the sole 011 a line parallel with the line of the out The result is that the outline to which the sole is trimmed has certain irregularities due to irregularities in the line ofthe outseam and other irregularities due tothe imperfect guiding of the shoe during the trimming operation, and that there are variations in the distance at which the sole is trimmed from the outseam at different points in the margin 7 of the sole. Edge trimming machines have been devised in which a gage aris provided for guiding the shoe during the trimming opera- WVhere agage is provided which enwhere a gage is provided which engages the upper of the shoe close to the inseam, the outline engaged by the gage will have certain irregularities which will be reproduced in'the trimming operation.

With these considerations in mind a further object of the present invention is to provide a method of making shoes by which an operating means may be caused to follow a] regular even outline about a shoe bottom.

Also-an ob ect of the invention is to provide an improved method of stitching the outsole of a welted shoe to the welt and trimming off the projecting margin of the sole of the shoe which will obviate the disadvan- With these objects in view, the invention consists in certainnovel steps in the manufacture of a shoe hereinafter described and particularly pointed out in the claims.

1 In the accompanying drawings are illus trated a machine for stitching outs'oles to the Welts of welted shoes, and a machine for trimming off the projecting margins of shoe soles which may be employed in carrying out the present invention.

In the drawings, Fig. 1 isa view in fr nt elevation of the machine for stitching outsoles towelts; Fig. 2 is a view in side elevation of the machine shown in Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a detail plan view illustrating the jack .supporting and actuating mechanisms and certain'associated parts of the machine of Fig. 1; Fig. dis a detail plan view of" a portion of the mechanism shown in Fig.

Q T" o; n 5 1s a detail plan v ew illustrating the mechanism of the machine of Fig. l for controlling the feeding movement of the shoe; Fig.

6 is a detail view in side elevation illustrat' ing the parts of the machine of'Fig. 1 enlar outline. is engaged with the upper of the shoe at some distance above the crease between the gaging the shoe at the point of operation;

Fig. 7 is a view in front elevation of the machine for trimming off the projecting margins of shoe soles; Fig. 8 is a view in side elevation of the machine shown in Fig. 7 Fig. 9' is a detail plan view illustrating the inechanisi'n for the machine of Fig. 7 for iniparting feeding'movements t0 the shoe; Fig. 0 is a view in side elevation illustrating the )arts of the machine of Fig. 7 which onage the shoe at the point of operation; Fig 1 is a plan view of the outsole of asho showing the same after the sole is roughrounded; Fig. 12 is a. view similar to Fig. .9 showing the outsole after the sewing of the same to the welt in accordance with the present process; and Fig. 13 is a view similar to Figures 11 and 12 showing the sole after the ecge is trimmed in accordance with this process. V

' In the present process as applied, in the making of welted'shoes, to the stitching'iof" rounded, the shoe is presented to an outsole' stitching mechanism and during the stitching operation predetermined relative move ments are imparted to the stitching mechanism and the shoe to locate the shoe in the.

proper position with relation to the stitch- I ing mechanism the point .of operation is transferred about the shoe. Preferably the proper I relative positions of the stitching mechanism and the shoe are .m'aintained by imparting movements to the shoe, The position of the shoe transversely of the line of feed during tl'ie'stitching operation is determined by engaging a gaging device with a certain outline on the shoe. During the stitching operation the gaging device is moved to compensate for the irregularities in the outline engaged bythe engaging device sons to cause the seam to follow a regu- Preferably the gaging device projecting mar in of the sole and the upper. The outline thus engaged by the gaging device is determined by the shape'of the last abovetlie last bottom and is uniform in shape inshoes of the same style, this outline varying'only in dimensions in different sizes of shoes of the same style. The uniformity in this outline in different shoes of the same style enables the shoe to be guided properly with relation torthe operating means by imparting the same movements to the gaging device in operating upon different shoes the time relation of the movements of the gage and the feeding.movementsof the shoe being varied to suit shoes of different sizes.

The outline above described, which is engaged by the'gaging device, has a non-parallelfr'e'lationto the predetermined line which the seam is to follow throughout. considerable distances along certain parts of the shoe bottomor said outlinehas an entirely differ-cut shapefromthe predetermined outline 'along'whi'ch the seam is to be sewn. The

gaging device is moved during theoperation to compensate for thedifl'erence in shape between the outline engaged by the gaglng'device and the predetermined outline which the gaging device is moved to compensate for the irregularities in the 'outline engaged by said device so that theseam willfollow a regularsmooth even outline. r

After the outsolehasbeen :stitched to the welt inthis mannelg at'the proper stage: in thefurther manufacture of the shoe the shoe is presented to an" edge trimming mechanism. During the edge trimming operation predetermined relative movements are imparted to the shoe and the edge trimming mechanism to locate the shoein proper position with relation to said-mechanism as the-point of operation is transferred about the shoe.

In the edge trimming operation also the position of the shoe transversely of the line of feed i's'cleterminelby engaging a gag ng dev ce with a certain outline on'the shoe.

This gaging device'is moved iduringvthe sole 7 trimming operation to compensate for the irregularities in the outline engaged by the gaging' device so as to vcause the shoevto be trimmed to a regular outline." The gaging [device is preferably engaged with an outline on the shoe which is uniform 'intshoes of the samesizeand style, and is of uniform shape in different shoes ofthe same styleso that the different shoes may beguided propas the-relative movements imparted to the erly with relation to thetrimming mechanism by imparting the same movements to the gaging device. The relative movements imparted'to the trimming mechanism and the shoe durin the trimming o aeration will D it.

usually be the same'or substantially the same stitchforming mechanism and the shoe duringthe stitching operation. Preferably the relat ve positions of the-tr mming niechanism and the shoe are maintained by imparting movements to the shoe. Preferably also the gaging device is engaged with the same outline on the shoe during the Y trimming operationas the outhne'engaged by the gaging device in the stitching operatlon. When the movements imparted to the shoe in the stitching operation and in the trimming operation are the same, andthe sole ]S to be trimmed off on a line parallel with the line of the outseam as is the present practice in shoe manufacture, the same movements will be in'iparted to the gage in the trimming operationas in the stitching operation;

In the manufacture of a Welted shoe the stitching of the outsole'of a shoe to'the-welt and the trimming of the projecting margin of the shoe sole in the manner above de-' scribed may be advantageously carried out by placingthe shoe at the proper stage in the manufacture thereof in the machine shown in Figures 1 to 6 inclusive to stitch the outsole pending application Serial No. 255,209, filed September 21, 1918. V I a The sewing mechanism of the machine shown in -these figures comprises a curved hook needle, a curved aWl 4, a work support 6, and a presser-foot 8.: The machine is provi-ded with a ack 12 for supporting the shoe during the sewing operation.

The jack 12 i-s mounted on the upper end of a spindle 14:, supported atits lower end. The supporting devices for the spindle-oomprises'a-wheel 16 rotatably mounted ona stud 18 and connected with the spindle by a "gimbal joint. The stud: 18 is supported at the forward end of a yoke 20,;pivot'ed to swing in a vertical 22. The yoke 22 in turn is pivoted to swing in a-hori zontal plane on alink frame 24,

plane on a seoondyoke held at all times at the point of operation 7 by the engagement of the work support,

presser-fo'ot, needle'and fawl with the projecting margin of the sol e. Relatively slight vertical movements are imparted to the. ack and shoehy theacooperative action-of spring 30 and the work support andpresser foot, the work support and resser-foot acting as guides for the shoef The'support ing devices for the jack spindle permit "the lower endof the spindle to be freely moved horizontally in any direction, and also permit the jack to tip freely in any direction about the lower end of the-spindle. Longitudinal andflat eral tipping movements and lateral turning movements are imparted to the-jack and thereby to the shoe to position theasho'e properly with'relation to the stitch formmg devices as the point of o ieration istrans.

ferredfa'bout the shoe; The required tipping movements are imparted to the Jack by devices acting to move the lower end of the v spindle'forward, rearwardly and laterally of the machine, and the required turning movements are imparted to the jack'by devices acting to rotate the jack spindle. Be-

cause of the fact that the shoe is held at all times at the point of operation by the devices engaging the shoe, the tipping and turning movements imparted to. the shoe are caused. to take place about these devices as a fulcrum.

The arm 26 is actuated to impart forward and rearward movements to the lower end of the jack spindle by means of a lever 34, connected with the arm 26, and a cam roll 36 mounted on said lever and, arranged to engage in a cam groove 38 in a cam'disk 40,

1 meshing gear segments and the other end of' 'which carries a cam roll 70 arranged to en-' mounted on a cam-shaft 42 which for COIrvenience will'behereinaftertermed the pattern cam shaft. The yoke 20 is actuated to move the lower end of the spindlelaterally by mechanism comprising a bell crank lever 43 and a link 44 connecting the yoke 20 with the bell'crank lever. A lever 46 is connected with the bell crank lever and carries a cam roll 48 engaging in a cam groove 50 also formed in the cam disk 40; The wheelgage a cam'face'ZQ, formed on a cam disk 74, mounted on the cam shaft 42.

The jack spindle is acted upon intermediate itslower end and the jack by mechanism tending yieldingly to: swing the jack about 7 the connection between the lower end of the spindle and the wheel 16 toward the rear of the machine. This mechanism comprises a rod 7 6 connected at its forward end with the jack spindle and acted upon at its rear end by devices tending yieldingly to move the rod rearwardly. The devices are arranged to act upon the rod with a variable force and are controlled by certain movements of the jack spindle during the opera tion of the machine. This mechanism acting on thejack tends tomaintain the shoe at allytimes during the stitching operation in its proper rearward. position with relation to the stitching mechanism at the point of operation.

-The machine for stitching outsoles illustrated in the drawings is also provided with a movable gage indicated at 7 8 for guiding the shoe to determine the distance at which the seam is formed from the edge of the shoe sole. The gage is pivotally mountedat on an arm on the frame of the machine and.

is constructed and arranged to extend upwardly from its pivotal point to a point just below the'work support 6 so that its upper end will engage the upper of the shoe.

The gage thus engages the upper of the shoe at a point at some distance from the crease and the outline-engaged by the gage is determined by the last and will be of uniform shape on different shoesof the same style,

.the outline varying only in dimensions on such shoes of different sizes. The gage actu ating devices of the machine operate. under normal conditions to hold the gage at all times positively in contact with the upper of the shoe so that the position ofthe shoe is determined by the gage throughout the operation of the machine to cause the seam to be formed at the proper distance from the edge of the shoe. at all points in the'sole margin. The outline-engaged by the gage is considerably differentin shape from that which the seam is to follow and the gage is moved to compensate for the difierences in shape between these two outlines. The gage engaging contour of the shoe irregular in outline at certain points, the irregularities in the same being due to the overlapping of the parts of the upper at certain points. order that these irregularities may not'be reproduced in sewing the outseam, the gage 78" is actuated to compensate forthese irregularities so that the seam follows a regular out-line.

The gage is also actuated to compensate for certain of the positioning movements imparted to the shoe during the stitching operation which tend to vary the forward or rear ward position of the pro]ecting margin of the sole at the point of operation transversely of the line of feed. In order that the seam'may be located farther from the upper. about the. foi'epart of the sole than along the shank, the gageris advanced in passing from the shank to the forepart as the first side of the shoe is sewn, and is retracted in passing from the forepart to the shank on the opposite side of the shoe.

The mechanism for actuating the gage in this manner comprises an arm 82, also pivotedat 80 and having a pro ection arranged to engage an abutment of the gage. -The e is held normally in contact with the prdjection on the arm 82 by the engagement of the shoe with the gage. The lower end of the arm 82 engages an eccentricfSi secured to a rock shaft 86. The rock shaft is rotated to advance and cause thei'etra-ction of the gage by means of a gear segment 88 secured to the rock shaft and an inter neshing gear segment 90 formed on a swinging arm 92 secured to a rock shaft 94. T o the rock shaft 94 is secured a second arm 96 which carries a roll engaging a contact face formed on the outer end ofan arm 98 secured to a vertical rate of feed of the shoe. In order that the shaft 100. To the; shaft is secured a secand arm 1,02 upon which is mounted a cam roll 104 engaging a cam face 106 formed on the cam disk 40.

Feeding movements are imparted to the shoe by; the movements of theaxvl 4; in the line-0t feed. When a shoe is placed in the machine themechanism for driving the pattern roam shaft 1s ad usted 1n accordance With the size of the shoe for a predetermined ositionin ',mechanism ma oeerate to, osi- .tion' the shoe properly With-relation to, the

. 'stitchforming mechanism, as the 'point of operation is transferred about the, shoe it is important that theshoe shallrbe fed ator substantially at the predetermined rate with relation to thespeedof the pattern cam shaft throughout theoperation. For certain reasons variations from thepredet-ermmed rate of feed often occur in the feeding movements imparted to the. shoe-by the aWl, thereby placing theshoe out Eof time Withthecam shaft. 1 To obviate this difficulty, mechanism is provided Which (operates, automatically upon the occurrence of anincrease or a decrease inthe rate offeed of. the shoe from the predetermined rate of, feed to adjust the feeding mechanism to diminish or increase the grate ofg'feed and thereby restorethe shoe to its proper time relation to the cam Shaft. r

. The mechanism for controlling the rate of feed of the shoe comprises, a lever 108 pivoted at 110 on the frame,a lever 112'pivotally mounted at 11 1 on the lever 108, and a bar or link-116 connecting the leverg112 With the toe end of the jack; During theoperation of the machine the lever 108-is swung to the left in timed relation to, the rotation of the pattern cam? shaft. The mechanism for actuating the lever 108 comprises a triangular v lever 118, pivotally mounted at 120 on a hanger 122, and pivotally connected at124 Withthe lever 108. The hanger 122 ispivotally supported at126 on a lever 128 p1v- ;oted at 130 on the frame. The lever 128 is locked in position during the serving opera- 7 tion, and the lever 118 With the hanger 122 is swung about the pivot 126. a The mechanism for thus actuating the lever -118 comprises a lever 132 pivoted at'l34e,.and connected with the lever 118 by a link frame 136, a cam lever 138 and a link 139 connecting the cam lever with the lever 132. The cam lever 138 carries a cam roll 140. ar

ranged to engage a cam face 142 formedon the camjdisk 74.

(The lever 112 carries a series of electrical ..contacts;,by. which aseries of circuits .con-

trolling the ,mechanism for adjusting the feedingmove'ments of the awl may. be made or broken. The lever 1108 is actuated so that,

' JVllelT the shoeisfed at the predetermined :rate, there will be no pivotal movement of the lever i l2 relativelyto the leveri108,fand i the circuits controlled by the lever 112 will remain open. WVhen, however, the rate of feed of the shoe falls belovv; theq'predetermined rate, the pivotal movement of the lever 112 relatively to the lever 108 Willclose certain I of; the electrical. circuits and cause an adjustment ofthe feeding devices to increase therate of feed of the shoe. In a corresponding manner, when the rate of feed 0f the shoe rises above the predetermined rateof feed, the swinging movement of the lever 112 Willclose certain of the electrical circuits and cause an adjustment of the feeda ,ing devices to decrease the rate. of feed of the shoe. Through the connections-between thelever 128 -and' the jack, said leverandthe fulcrum of the lever 118 are adjusted in accordance with the size of theshoe to be sevvn-uponthei placing of the shoe in themachine in positionfto start the seam The-lever 128 con-1 t-rols the mechanism for. driving the pattern cam shaft, the speed of said cam shaft being ad usted .in' accordance With the size offthe shoe! by-the adjustment of the lever 12 8. Thusthe cams 38, 50,72, 106 and 1421may' be employedin operatingupon different sizesof shoes of thesame style.

Afterthe outsole has be en stitc-hedflto the vvelt, inthe, further carrying out aof the present process, the shoe may, at the proper stage in the further -manufacture, of the :T-hemachlne shovvn'in Figures 7.:to 10h inclusive has the same construction, arrange- .ment, andmode of operation of partsasthe machine illustrated and. cants pending application 355,820, filed February 2, 1920.

described in appli- Serial No.

This machine comprises two frotaryfedg'e trimming tools 1 14 and 1%, mounted on. a

. vertical shaft 148. The shoe is supportedat the point ofoperati'onby means of a ork table arranged to engage in the ,crease .between the projecting margin of the sole I and the upper, the sole resting on the upper surface of the stable. The shaft 148 'is' mounted on a carriage Which is arranged for adjustmentto locate. either 'of. the cutters 1 1-4 and 1 16 in operating position.

During the operation of'theedge trimmi ng machine on the shoe, the shoe is supported upon a jack 152. This jack has the same construction as the jack 12 of the machine for stitching outsoles shown inFigures 1 to 6 inclusive, and is supported and act uated by mechanism having the same construction, 1 "at-ion as "actuating the ack 12. "supporting- 'ing the lower wardly, rearwardly operative action of the spring 166 and the.

work support the work support acting as a guide for the shoe. In the, edge trimming machine" the same longitudinal and lateral tipping movements and lateral turning movements are imparted to the ack and thereby to the shoe to position the shoe'prop- "erly with relation to the trimming cutter as are imparted to the jack and shoe in the machine for stitching outsoles. The tipping movements are imparted end of the jack spindle forand laterally of themachine, and the turning movements are imparted to the jackby rotating the jack spindle, the movements thus imparted to the jack 'spindletipping and turning the shoe about the work support as a fulcrum.

. The varm'162 is actuatedto impart lateral tipping movements to the shoe by mechanism comprising a lever 168 connected with said arm and a cam roll TKO-mounted on said lever and engaged in a cam groove in a cam constitutes the pattern 'm aehine shown in Figures outsoles.

disk 172mounted on a cam shaft 17% which cam shaft of the ma- The cam groove in which the cam same shape as the in disk {l0 of the 1 to 6 inclusive. The yoke 156 is actuated to impart longitudinal tipping movements to the shoe by mechanism comprising a bell crank lever 175, a link-176and a chine. I roll 17 0 engages has the cam groove 38 in the c cam groove in the cam disk 17 2. The cam groove in which the cam roll 180 engages has the same shape as the cam groove in the cam disk 40 of the machine for stitching The mechanismof the edge trimming machinelfor imparting lateral turning [movements to the jack comprises a cable 182,

a pivoted segment 18st, a Weight 186 and a cam lever 188. The cam lever 188 carries a cam roll 190, arranged to engage a cam face 192 formed on a cam disk 19a, mounted on the pattern cam 'shaftjlM. The cam face 192 has the samev shape as thecam face 72 on the cam disk 7 of the machinefor stitching outsoles.

By the mechanism described, the same for- Ward, rearward and lateral movements and to the jack by movlever 178'. The lever 178 carries a cam roll 180 also engaging in a e per.

lowthe work support 150,

the same turning movements are imparted to the ack spindle n theedge trimming machine as in the machine forstitching outsoles. The point at which the shoe is engagedby the work support 150 in the edge trimmlng machine has thesame relation to the mechanism for supporting and actu' ating the ack as the point at which'the shoe is engaged by the work support, presserfoot, needle and 'awl of the machine for stitching outsoles has to the mechanism for supporting and actuating the ack 12 in this machine. The movements of the jack in the edge trimming machine, therefore, will impart the same tipping and turning move ments to the shoe as are imparted to the shoe in the machine for stitching outsoles.

In the edge trimming .machine the shoe is fed by feeding movements imparted to the jack. The mechanism for actuating the jack toflimpart feeding movements to the Shoe in this machine comprises a feeding lever 196 pivoted at 198 on the frame, and a bar or link 200 connecting the feeding lever with the toe end of the jack. During the operation of the machine the feeding lever 196 is swung to the left in timed relation to the rotation of the pattern cam shaft, thereby actuating the jack ,to advance the marginal portion of the shoe past the edge cutting tool. The mechanism for actuatlng the lever 196 in this manner has the same construction, arrangement and mode of operation as themechanism for actuating the lever 108 of the machine for stitching outsoles. The'mechanism for actuating the lever 196 comprises a triangular lev er 202, a hanger 204:, a lever 206, a lever 208, a link frame 210, a cam lever 212 and a'link 214. The cam lever 212 carries a cam roll 216 engaging a-canrface 218 formed on the cam disk 194. The cam face 218 has the same shape as the cam face 1 22 on the cam disk '74 of the machine for stitching outsoles. The shoe will thus be fed at the same rate relative to the speed'of the pattern cam shaftin the edge trimming machine as in the machine for stitching outsoles.

'The lever 206 and the fulcrum of the lever 202 are adjusted in accordance with the size of the shoe to be trimmed upon the placing of the shoe in the machine in position to start the trimming operation and the ad- "justment of the lever 206 also adjusts the Speed of the pattern camshaftin accordance with the size of the shoe.

The edge trimming machine is provided with a movable gage, indicated at. 220 for a at which the shoe is trimmed from the up- The gage is pivotally mounted at 222 on an arm on the frame, and extends upwardly from its pivotal point to a point hethe gage 220 engaging thershoe at the same distance from uiding the shoe to determine the distance.

ico

- ing the jack '12.

.impartedto the gage 220 during the trimeis-#16 the projecting margin of'the sole as the gage 78 of the machine for stitching outsoles.

The outline engaged by the gage 220, there-- fore, is the same as the outline engaged by.

the gage 78 The shoe is, maintained in contact with the gage 220' at all tin'ie's during the trimming operation, thefgage determining the distance from tl-i'e upper at which the shoe sole is triminedoif through out the operation. The gage 220 has the same relation to the devices for supporting and. actuati-ngthe jack 152 as, the gage 78- of the machine for stitching outsoles has to the mechanism for supporting and" actuat- The same movements are ining operation as are imparted to the gage 78 during the stitching of the outsole to the welt. The outline engaged by the gage has a different shape from the shape of the'outline to'which the soleis to-be trimmed and the shoe is trimmed to a; regular outline.

The gage is also actuated tocoinpensate for certain of the positioningmovements imparted to the shoe during the ope-ration which tend to vdisplace the projecting margin of the sole with'relation to the trimming cutter. an order that 'a somewhat wider margin may be left on'the sole about the forepart than along the'sliank, the gage is advanced in passing from the shank of the ole to the forepart in trimming the sole on first side of'the shoe and'is'retracted in passing from the-forepart to the shank in trimming the sole on the opposite side of the shoe. y

The mechanism for actuating the gage 220 comprises a rock shaft 224, an eccentric 226 upon which the lowerend of the gage rests, gear segments228 and 23,0,*an arm 232, a. rock shaft 234:, an arm 236, an arm 238, a vertical shaft 240 and an arm 242. The arm 242 carries a cam roll 244 arranged to engage a cam face 246 on the cam disk 172. The cam face 246 has the same shape as the cam face 106 on the cam disk 40 of the machine for stitching outsoles. l/Vith the gage 220 actuated and con:

trolled in the above manner, the shoe, will be guided by the gage in the same path as the shoe is guided by the gage78ofthe n'iachinefor stitching outsoles. 'The edge trini ming cutters are, of course, located so that the cutting point is somewhat-farther back with relation to the gage than the point of operation of the needleand awl ot' the machine for stitching out-soles with relation to the gage 78. Thus the sole of the shoe will be trimmed off by the trimming cutters along a line parallel with the outseain Or at a uniform distaneefrom theoutseain at. all points in the margin of the shoe bottom. g

F 1g. 11 of the drawings illustrates inplan a shoe bottom after the. sole of the shoe has been rough-rounded, the junction line ofthe upper and the projecting marginiof'. the sole being'iiid'icated by thedouble dotand' dash lineainthis figure. It will be notedifroin this figure that the outline of the out-sole has certain irregularities and that the out sole has a somewhat widerinargin' about parts. of the margin of the-sole. T'his'in-- crease' in the Wl'dtll of the promoting margin otthe. sole isdue to the increasein the the gage the rough-rouinding machine when'operating about the toe. 1 r I F 1g. 12 illustrates a shoe bottom after;

theoutsole of the shoe has been stitched to the wvelt in accordance with applicants method. In Figures 11 and l2 the outline engaged. bythe gaging device by which the shoe-is guided duringthe' stitching operation is indicated by the single :dot and dash line b; It willlbe noted from this figure that the lineof the outseam' indicated by dotted line c does not foll.owthe. irregularities in the rough-rounded edge of the sole, but that the seam is sewn to: aregulareven outline. t

Fig. 13 illustrates a shoe bottom after the outsolehas been trimmed in. accordance with the present method, the outline engaged by the gaging device to guide the shoe during the trimming operation being indicated by single dotand dash lined and the lll'leOf'thQUUtSGktlH by dotted line 0 in this figure. It will be noted from this figure I that all the irregularities occurring in the margin line o-f the rough-rounded outsol'e are removed inthe trimming operation, the shoe being trimmed to a regular even outline. Also the-trimmed edge of the sole is located at a uniform distance from the out-- seam at all points in the sole margin.

' Having explained the nature and object of the invention, and specifically described a manner in which "the invention maybe carried out, what is claimed isl. The process of inaliing shoes which tlietoe portion of the sole than along other thicknes ofthe' upper materials engaged by too ire"

comprises guiding "a shoe during the. presentation of the s'h oeto'an operating'means by engaging gaging'device with an outline on the shoe above and parallel withthe last bottom and moving the gaging device dur ing the operation to cause the operating means to follow a'ditierent predetermined outline.

2. The process of. making shoes which comprises presenting a lasted shoe to an operating means, guiding the shoe duringthe operation of the operating ineanson the forepart and shank th-ereofby engaging-a ing device with an outline on the shoe deteriso . comprises'forming the outseam of a shoe along an, outline different from but n predetermined relation to a certain outline on the shoe and trimming off the pro ecting- :margin of the shoe sole to'an' outlinedit ferent from but in predetermined relation to said shoe outline. a I 4. The process of making shoes which comprises presenting a shoe to an operating means and guiding the shoe during the operation ofthe operating means thereon to cause the operating means to follow an outline different from but having a predetermined relation to a certain contour on the shoe, thereafter presenting the shoe to a second operating means and guiding the shoe during the operation or" the second operating means thereon to cause the second operating means to follow an outline dififerent from but having a predetermined relation to the same contour. 7

' 5. The process of making shoes which comprises forming the outseam oi a shoe along an outline different from but in predetermined relation to a certain contour on the shoe and trimming'ofl' the projecting mar-' gin of the sole in predetermined relation to the outseam.

6. The process of making shoes Which comprises guiding a shoe during the stitching of an outsole to the Welt by engaging a gaging device With a certain contour on the shoe and moving the gaging device during the stitching operation to compensate tor'irregularities in saidcoiitour and guiding the shoe during the trimming oli of theprojecting margin of tbe soleby engaging a gaging device With a certain contour-on the shoe and moving the gaging device during the trimming operation to compensate for irregularities in said contour.

7. The process of making shoes which coin prises imparting predetermined relative positioning movements to a shoe and the stitch "forming mechanism during the stitching of the outsole to the Welt and guiding the shoe during the stitching operation by engaging a gaging device with a certain contour on the shoe and imparting predetermined move ments to the gaging device during the stitching operation, and impartingrelative positioning movements the same in direction ant extent to the trimming mechanism and the shoe during the trimming of the projecting margin of the sole and guiding the shoe during the trimming operation by engaging a gaging device With the same contour on the shoe and imparting movements the same in direction and extent to the gaging device those imparted during the stitching operation.

, 8. The process of making shoes vvhich com prises forming the outseam of a shoe in predetermined relation to a certain contour on the shoe determined by the shape of the last and trimming off the projecting margin of the shoe sole in predetermined relation to said contour. 1

9. The process ofmaking siioes which comprises forming the outseam of a shoe along an outline different from but inpredeter- V mined relation to a certain outline on the shoe and thereafter trimming oii the projecting margin of the shoe sole to an outline different from but in predetermined relation to said shoe outline. 7 V v 10. The process of making shoes Which comprises presenting a lasted shoe to an operating means, guiding the shoe during the operation of the operating means on the torepart thereof by engaging a gaging .device with an outline on the shoe determined by the shape of the last and moving the gage during the operation.

11. The process of making shoes Whicli' comprises guiding a shoe during the operation on the shoe to an operating means by engaging a aging device With an'outline on the shoe alcove and parallel With the last bottom, and moving the gaging device as predetermined points in the outline are reached to cause the operating means to follow a different predetermined outline.

12. The process of making shoes, Which comprises presenting; a lasted shoe to an operating means, causing the operating means to follow an outline determined by an outline of the shoe, imparting'relative tipping movements to the shoe and operating means to maintain their proper relative p0 s'itions as certain predetermined points in the outline operated upon are reached, thereafter presenting the shoe to a second operating means, causing said second operating means to follow an outline determined by an outline of the shoe and impartingfrelative tipping movements the same in direction and extent to the shoe and said second operating means as corresponding points in the outline operated upon are reached.

. 13. The process of making shoes which consists in presenting a shoe having one or more guiding outlines of predetermined shape successively to a. plurality of operating means, causing each operating means totolloivan' outline determined by one of said guiding outlines, and imparting predetermined tipping movements to the shoe to maintain it in proper position with relation to the operating 'means as predetermined points in the outline operated upon. are reached. 7

14C. The process 01"- making shoesWhich comprises presenting a lasted shoe to an operating means causing the operating means to follow an outline determined by an outline of the sh'oe, imparting predeterminedrelatire tipping movements to the shoe and open atlng means to maintain their proper relative positions as certain predetermined points in the outline operated upon are reached, thereafter presenting the shoe to a second operating means, causing said second operating means to follow an outline determined by the same ontlineof the shoe 10 and imparting predetermined relative tipping movements to the shoe and 'said second I LAURENCEE. TOPHAM'. a 

